The Trip

In April of 2009, my wife Bobbie and I did a road trip across Patagonia in a pickup truck camper; driving down the Andes on Argentina’s western highway Ruta 40, coming back east along the Straits of Magellan in Chile, and then back up Argentina’s Atlantic Coast highway Ruta 3. We camped along the way in national parks, municipal campgrounds, truck stops, and many times just alongside the road; and we stopped at every place possible, both famous and not. You can see our route of travel here.

This travel blog is a daily journal of the trip, along with a few pictures (see
http://parkenbi.zenfolio.com/patagonia for more photos). The "Last Entry" below is the trip summary, but our journey actually began at a train station in Florida so you'll want to start there ... go to "We're Off".

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Day 27 – Gauchito Gil

TODAY WAS JUST a drive day and not very interesting; Bobbie and Bill just grinding out the miles on Ruta 3 to get a camping spot on the outskirts of Buenos Aires.

So instead, here is the explanation for the “Mystery of the Very Red Doghouses” roadside shrines that we saw starting on our second day in Argentina … and on every day since.

Thanks go to Kary in Buenos Aires for sending me the following:


EL GAUCHITO GIL

The Gauchito Gil is a legendary character of Argentina's popular culture. His full name was Antonio Mamerto Gil Núñez and he was allegedly born in the area of Pay Ubre, nowadays Mercedes, Corrientes, possibly in the 1840s, and died on 8 January 1878.

Popular accounts vary, but in broad terms the legend tells that Antonio Gil was a farm worker and that a wealthy widow fell in love, or had an affair, with him. When her brothers and the head of the police (who was also in love with the widow) found out about their relationship, accused him of robbery and tried to kill him. He enlisted in the army to escape from them. In the army, he fought against the Paraguayan army. Finally, he could come back to his village as a hero. But, when he arrived at his village, he was forced to return to the army to fight in the Argentine Civil War. It was a brother versus brother war and "Gauchito" Gil was tired of fighting. Therefore, he decided to desert.

In the end the policemen caught him in the forest. They tortured him and hung him from his feet on an Algarrobo tree. When a policeman was going to kill him, Gauchito Gil said to him: "Your son is very ill. If you pray and beg me to save your child, I promise you that he will live. If not, he will die". Then the policeman killed Gauchito Gil by cutting his throat. That was January 8th, 1878.

When the policemen came back to his village, the one who had killed Gauchito Gil learnt that his child was in fact very ill. Very frightened, the policeman prayed to "Gauchito" Gil for his son. And afterwards, his son got better. Legend has it that Gauchito Gil had healed his murderer's son. Very grateful, the policeman gave Gil's body a proper burial, and built a tiny shrine for Gauchito. Moreover, he tried to let everybody know about the miracle.

Gauchito Gil is thought to be a saint for many people of the provinces of Formosa, Corrientes, Chaco, the north of Santa Fe and even the province of Buenos Aires. One can spot smaller shrines of Gauchito Gil on roadsides throughout Argentina. Great pilgrimages are organized to the sanctuary (located about 8 km from the city of Mercedes) to ask to the saint for favors. Moreover, each January 8th (date of Gil's death), there is a celebration honoring Gauchito Gil. There, the people dance, sing and drink, and also play folkloric sports as tanning horses, bulls and others animals. The Catholic Church hasn't declared Gauchito Gil a saint, but many Argentine people are promoting him.

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