The Trip

In April of 2009, my wife Bobbie and I did a road trip across Patagonia in a pickup truck camper; driving down the Andes on Argentina’s western highway Ruta 40, coming back east along the Straits of Magellan in Chile, and then back up Argentina’s Atlantic Coast highway Ruta 3. We camped along the way in national parks, municipal campgrounds, truck stops, and many times just alongside the road; and we stopped at every place possible, both famous and not. You can see our route of travel here.

This travel blog is a daily journal of the trip, along with a few pictures (see
http://parkenbi.zenfolio.com/patagonia for more photos). The "Last Entry" below is the trip summary, but our journey actually began at a train station in Florida so you'll want to start there ... go to "We're Off".

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Day 14 – In Chile

El Calafate to Torres del Paine National Park, Chile


Pavement. Ripio. Pavement. Ripio. Ripio. Ripio. Mind-numbing flatness, the horizon a pure line. Breathtaking sweeping grand vistas of mountains and mesas and canyons. Sunny. Overcast. Cold. Cool. Windy. Calm. Guanacos. Guanacos. Guanacos.

How boring – Just another day driving across Patagonia.

As I write this Bobbie and I have just finished a dinner that she made in the camper that included a fresh salad of carrots and sliced tomatoes and boiled eggs. There was no lettuce in the salad because it was confiscated at the Chilean border today, along with the fresh whole tomatoes and some packaged lunch meat that was one day beyond expiration. To be fair, the border guards did let us eat as much as we wanted of our prohibited food at the crossing point; so there we were, chomping down quickly made sandwiches at the border of Chile and Argentina, high up on a pass in the Andes.

We are now in Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park, and just from the views we’ve seen in a few hours everyone should put this place on their “see it before you die” list – not just because of the rocky towers for which the park is named (“torres” means “towers” in Spanish), but also the outstanding glacial lakes and smaller mountains one sees while driving around in the park.

While we were paying admission at the park entrance, the three rangers there heard a funny sound nearby and they all suddenly ran out of the room for a nearby hill, indicating that we should come along as they had spotted a puma, a rare event. We went with them, and sure enough there was a puma sitting behind an old fence, probably interested in all the guanacos in the area. After watching us for a while the puma got up and walked away, and we headed back to the Ranger station across an area littered with big bones and torn up hide – remains of a guanaco – and in perfect English one of the rangers said to me: “For the pumas, this place is Applebee’s.”


Puma.
More pictures here.


Guanacos in Torres del Paine NP

We left Ruta 40 a few miles short of its southern termination today when we crossed into Chile at the Don Guillermo pass. We are now camping in the Lake Pehoe area in Torres del Paine NP.

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