The Trip

In April of 2009, my wife Bobbie and I did a road trip across Patagonia in a pickup truck camper; driving down the Andes on Argentina’s western highway Ruta 40, coming back east along the Straits of Magellan in Chile, and then back up Argentina’s Atlantic Coast highway Ruta 3. We camped along the way in national parks, municipal campgrounds, truck stops, and many times just alongside the road; and we stopped at every place possible, both famous and not. You can see our route of travel here.

This travel blog is a daily journal of the trip, along with a few pictures (see
http://parkenbi.zenfolio.com/patagonia for more photos). The "Last Entry" below is the trip summary, but our journey actually began at a train station in Florida so you'll want to start there ... go to "We're Off".

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Day 10 – Drove across Mars today

Perito Moreno Parque Nacional to El Chalten


WE LEFT Perito Moreno National Park early today, having abandoned all hopes of a romantic stay at an estancia. It is still a beautiful park and we enjoyed seeing it for a few hours.

Back on Ruta 40 about 90 minutes later, and surprisingly hit an isolated section of finished, painted, signed, paved road for about 40 miles; and then back to ripio until the next pueblo many miles later. We didn’t see another car all morning --we could have driven backwards at 60 mph in the oncoming lane on the entire paved section if we wanted (we only did this for five miles and then got bored). I … uh … noted that I missed the ripio a little while driving on the pavement, realizing that I am much more connected to the earth going 30 mph or less and feeling every contour of her shape.

We got to the pueblo of Gobernador Gregores around noon hoping to fuel up and get a few supplies, but we arrived at the wrong time, everything was closed for siesta and the gas station had no power (therefore no pump/no fuel). We decided not wait until the stores re-opened at 4 PM and the power hopefully restored; and gambled that we could make it to the next pueblo 4 hours away -- Tres Lagos – on a half of a tank (and we have a spare five gallons in a can).
We made it no problem to Tres Lagos but all afternoon we traveled across the most bizarre landscape: volcanic, mostly barren of vegetation, canyons and mesas not much impacted by erosion – it was alien, unfamiliar, surreal. We could have been one of those rovers on Mars. All ripio of course, and the winds were phenomenal again today … we sailed back and forth across the very wide Ruta 40, and I’m pretty sure we flew the upwind wheels on the truck a couple of times.


We fueled up no problem in Tres Lagos and hit pavement, perhaps permanently. Now camped alongside the road about 30 miles from El Chalten, and it’s raining and the temperature is dropping drastically – it will be a cold night.

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