Well, almost through the Ripio (rubble road) … I think we still have a stretch or two later in the trip.
It is Easter Sunday. We woke up to crazy cold this morning – had to be below freezing with a strong wind – but the storm had cleared and we discovered that had camped beside a beautiful milk-blue glacial lake, with mountains on the far side (now capped with fresh white snow from the storm). We drove the 30 miles (on pavement!) to El Chalten as the sun rose and lit up the Fitz Roy peaks behind the town. We didn’t know we would get that treat when we decided to stop and camp beside the road the night before.
El Chalten is tiny, but very different from the small dusty pueblos along the desert part of Ruta 40. It’s the gateway to the northern part of Los Glaciares National Park and tucked into a flat spot at the base of the Fitz Roy peaks; is full of hostels, restaurants, and mountain climbing shops; has a construction boom of Alpine-looking buildings and just feels very new and youthful.
From the town, we did a small hike to a waterfall in the NP and then a 4 hour hike up to a viewing point of the peaks, climbing through a forest turning red because of fall (the rangers told us this only lasts 2 weeks). When we got to the viewing point at 2 PM the Fitz Roy peaks were socked in as you can see in the picture below, totally different from the morning when we drove into town.
Los Glaciares National Park is well developed and there were many others besides us enjoying the trails. After the endurance drive to get here, Bobbie said “It feels like we are finally on vacation.”
El Chalten and Los Glaciares National Park are in the blue circle second from the bottom of the map on the blog site. We’ve driven about 1500 miles from Buenos Aires.
The Trip
In April of 2009, my wife Bobbie and I did a road trip across Patagonia in a pickup truck camper; driving down the Andes on Argentina’s western highway Ruta 40, coming back east along the Straits of Magellan in Chile, and then back up Argentina’s Atlantic Coast highway Ruta 3. We camped along the way in national parks, municipal campgrounds, truck stops, and many times just alongside the road; and we stopped at every place possible, both famous and not. You can see our route of travel here.
This travel blog is a daily journal of the trip, along with a few pictures (see http://parkenbi.zenfolio.com/patagonia for more photos). The "Last Entry" below is the trip summary, but our journey actually began at a train station in Florida so you'll want to start there ... go to "We're Off".
This travel blog is a daily journal of the trip, along with a few pictures (see http://parkenbi.zenfolio.com/patagonia for more photos). The "Last Entry" below is the trip summary, but our journey actually began at a train station in Florida so you'll want to start there ... go to "We're Off".
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